40 Knots Winery
A Pinot Noir Outpost in the Comox Valley Experiments with Amphora Aging
British Columbia’s Pinot Noir Vineyard Outposts
The great majority of wineries making pinot noir wines in British Columbia are ranged along the full length of the Okanagan Valley, with a much smaller cluster in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island as well as handfuls in the Fraser and Similkameen valleys. But there are a score of other worthy pinot noir producing vineyards scattered on the map of B.C. as well in places like Kamloops, Lillooet, Creston and the Gulf Islands (where 6 wineries are on 4 different islands).
There are different kinds of pinot noir vineyard outposts. Some are strictly geographical, some are climate related, and other involve proximity or lack thereof to people, whether those people are resident or happen to be driving by.
In the matter of terroir however, every new vineyard planted is an outpost. Research involving weather records, overall climate and soil analysis as well as varietal, clone and rootstock selection, availability of water and many other factors contribute to the decision about where to plant a vineyard. But to know for certain that you’ve founded a successful vineyard you will have to wait a number of years for vines to mature enough to provide grape juice for your wine.
Outposts are inherently leaps of faith of one kind or another. To find the right spot to grow and vinify pinot noir grapes, a winery’s founders must in part, dream of pinot noir. In order to bet this terroir long shot, the dream has to be a patient and persistent one because vineyards are no short term experiment. A founder’s site research must conclude there is something exceptional about the area and a particular, unfledged piece of ground to take the risk and make a decision both faithful and fateful.
Despite pinot noir’s ability to be used in sparkling, still white, rosé or still red wines ,some pinot noir vineyards outposts will fold, some will idle along and some will become dreams comes true.
The Northern Outpost For Vancouver Island Pinot Noir
40 Knots winery is Vancouver Island’s Northern pinot noir outpost. Though not the most Northerly pinot noir vineyard in B.C., it is a 160 km drive Northwest (1.5 degrees of more Northerly latitude) from the Cowichan Valley, home to the largest grouping of pinot noir vineyards on Vancouver Island. So, it is a fair jump up the map.
Its location near the base of the stubby thumb of the Comox peninsula that juts into the Salish Sea, parallels some other pinot noir areas such as the Mornington Peninsula in Australia or the Niagra Peninsula in Ontario.
Depending on other factors, the moderating effect of a nearby body of water can provide a longer growing season. When I lived in the Comox Valley for a few years, it was generally understood that the proximity of the Salish Sea gave Comox a growing season that was generally two weeks longer than the rest of the valley.
40 Knots Winery was founded by Bill Montgomery and opened in 2011. The original eighteen acre vineyard was planted in 2007 and 2008 with five acres of Pinot Noir planted in 2007 and one and a half acres in 2008. The majority of the rootstock arrived from France in 2005. Pinot noir comprises about a quarter of the acreage.
The first pinot noir (56 cases) released in 2009 was produced by Natasha Ponich (her first vintage as a winemaker) with consultation from B.C. based Christine Leroux who studied at the University of Bordeaux and was involved in a number of Bordeaux vintages.
From the outset, 40 Knots pinot noir showed well. The 2009 was favorably reviewed by Globe and Mail wine columnist Beppi Crosariol. It was also tasted by the B.C. pinot noir panel and received 90 points.
The winery was purchased by Layne Robert Craig and his wife, Brenda Hetman-Craig in July of 2014 after a two year search for the right vineyard property. They had been located in Calgary, were both working in high stress corporate jobs and were looking to do something different and to make a change in their lifestyle. Layne had grown up on a grain farm in Saskatchewan, so the idea of tending a vineyard encompassed moving forward and a return to his roots.
They felt that the 40 Knots founder Bill Montgomery had assembled all the right factors for starting a vineyard, including putting the right varietals in the right terroir along with the right equipment and infrastructure. This helped to convince them to make the leap.
40 Knots Winery is an outpost in terms of it’s latitude and geographical location but it is actually part of the community of Comox (pop. 14,000) and immediately adjacent to the town of Courtenay (pop. 28,000). This proximity to population has enabled 40 Knots to bind with the community in the valley and make itself a destination through its extensive programming of events, classes, seminars and more.
Layne took on the winery’s vineyard and winemaking management and Brenda handles the marketing, promotion and business aspects of 40 Knots.
The winemaking began with consulting advice from two very well respected winemakers Matt Dumayne from Okanagan Crush Pad (now Haywire Winery) and long time Okanagan winemaker Michael Bartier of Bartier Bros. Winery and Vineyard. Matt and Layne have both been involved in the winemaking in the subsequent decade of vintages.
From the beginning, the new owners placed a continuous focus on implementing farming practices that encourage thinking of the vineyard as a whole and tend towards self-sustainment. This means favouring the utilization of organic soil inputs, no herbicides or pesticides, minimal irrigation and utilizing biodynamic methodology. Ducks and sheep can be seen roaming the vineyard.
The winery leverages it’s Comox Valley spot to provide a host of reasons for locals and visitors alike to visit the winery. Their calendar of events includes: a wind chime workshop, craft nights, seaglass art instruction, fondue Fridays and a three level wine club. It’s small but elegant venues are available for a wide range of special events.
It’s an outpost yes, but an outpost with benefits.
40 Knots Vineyard Terroir
Within a half a kilometer from the Salish Sea, the soils consist of sandy gravelly marine over sandy gravelly morainal leading to schistic clay at 12-16' depths. The Elevation slopes 3° seaward. Hot to moderate day temperatures with cooling at night from the ocean breeze. Winters are very mild, seldom reaching below 0°C.
Farming: VSP (Vertical Shoot Position): Spur.
The Wines
The winery provided three wines for sampling and I was able to pull two more vintages from my cellar to provide a more in-depth portrait of pinot noir and its relation to amphora aging at 40 Knots. Here are my notes.
40 Knots Pinot Noir 2022
In The Glass
Quite pale in colour, almost a rosé and cedes very little on the nose at first but eventually showed pu-eh tea, light nutmeg, slightly confected cherry, pin cherry and some marionberry. The flavours are similar with light cherry/marionberry, pin cherry, and cranberry, succeeded by a lighter following wave of rose hip.Â
Overall, very delicate with light intensity of flavours though they are lengthy and thoroughly balanced and all ride on a singing acidity. Mandarin peel, dried mushroom and saffron crept in too as it opened up. The clarity of flavour, grace of its balance and persistence of flavours, light though they may be, is the charm here. B- ~ 90
In The Winery & Vineyard
The wine is sourced from all estate fruit and the clone is 777. De-stemmed with no crush to fermenters. 2-3 punch downs daily until native fermentation. Inoculated 50% with D254. Punched down 2 times daily until the cap sank. Racked to terracotta amphora for aging. 10Â months of aging - 35% aged in clay amphorae, remainder in mostly neutral French oak.Â
2022 was off to a very slow start with unusually cool temperatures and higher precipitation but recovered by June bringing dry warm weather through to the end of October to allow high brix with zero disease. The average sunlight was between 14-16 hours during the growing period with an average monthly precipitation of 3.6cm. PH: 3.47 | RS: .93 | TA: .9 | ABV: 11.5 Cases produced: 800 Winemaker: Layne Craig
This wine won a bronze medal in the £20-£30 category in the 2024 Pinot Masters Sample for Review
40 Knots Pinot Noir 2020
In The Glass
Very pale with a garnet colour throughout. Begins with slightly exotic, very savoury spices, including dried roses and mandarin peel, saffron, pu-eh tea leaves and a touch of cloves. The flavours are as on the nose, the fruit is very savoury with a soft entry, very delicate flavours, tea-like, very well balanced.  It’s light bodied with a long light saffron/dried mandarin peel finish and the tannins are very mature. Seems to be at its plateau. For current drinking. C+ ~ 88
In The Winery & Vineyard
The wine is sourced from all estate fruit and the clone is mainly 777 with about 10-15% clone 115. Pressed and aged 18 months aged in amphorae, with about 10% in Stainless for topping.
PH 3.55 | TA 6.82g/L | ABV 11.1% | RS: 1.8 Cases produced: 238 Winemaker: Layne Craig
Sample for Review
40 Knots Pinot Noir 115 Amphora 2017
In The Glass
The wine displays flowery, entwined notes of canned cherries, cloves and saffron on the nose and flavours. The flavours here are mostly gathered in the relatively plush mid-palate which then carries on to become the finish. Very rounded, smooth and approachable, the body and intensity are on the light side of medium. The flavours here have a little more weight but are less elaborated and though well balanced, it doesn’t feature the gentle tension of the 2022 and 2020 wines.  A little less poise but overall, more flavour intensity. C+ to B- ~ 89
In The Winery & Vineyard
The wine is sourced from all estate fruit and the clone is 115.
Cool native fermentation, whole cluster in terracotta amphora. Extended maceration until 20th of December. Pressed and returned to terracotta, and left there until September 2018, then rested in neutral Burgundian oak, 2nd-4th fill for 8 months until bottling. Lees stirred by inverting barrels a couple of times/week. No filter, no fining, minimal effective sulfites.Â
PH: 3.55 | RS: .2 | TA: 5.4 | ABV: 11.0 Cases produced: 167 Winemakers: Matt Dumayne, Layne Craig
40 Knots Pinot Noir 2014
In The Glass
Pale with a garnet rim. Ripe slightly confected cherry shows on the nose. Good intensity. Some greater weight and heft on the palate expressing cherries, clove, preserved plums and sweet baking spices. Very well balanced. C+ to B- ~ 89
In The Winery & Vineyard
The wine is sourced from all estate fruit and the clone is mainly 777. ABV 12.0%. Aged in newer 1-3 year French oak barrels, and stainless steel for 10 months.Â
Cases produced: 145 Winemaker: Matt Dumayne
40 Knots Pinot Noir 2016
In The Glass
Pale with a garnet rim, it’s beautifully scented with marionberry/blackberry, cloves, florals including violet and lilac, all intermingled with dried cherries and raspberry in the fruit baseline. There’s a more elevated intensity here compared with the other wines.
The clarity and persistence of flavours are present here too but are much more on the blackberry side versus the exotic tea/saffron ones found in the wines raised in amphora. There’s some very slight tannic friction just ahead of long finish that shows dried cherry and marionberry.  The focused fruit flavours, persistent, fresh and pronounced, carry on well into the finish as it opened. An engaging wine showing some power while retaining balance and grace. Should still improve for a few more years.  B- to B ~ 91
In The Winery & Vineyard
The wine is sourced from 100% estate fruit and the clones involved are 85% 777 and 15% 115. Aged 15% in amphorae, 85% in French oak, barrels turned for lees stirring weekly for 8-10 months. PH: 3.2 | ABV: 11.0
Cases produced: 398 Winemakers: Matt Dumayne, Layne Craig Sample for Review
General Notes on the Wines:
Overall, this was a particularly fascinating tasting. 40 Knots has been experimenting over the years with aging it’s pinot noirs to varying degrees in amphora and I was very interested to see its effects on the resulting wines.
There are only a handful of amphora aged wines made in B.C. and elsewhere for that matter, so my experience with terra cotta aged wines is admittedly limited. Up until now my general impression of such wines is that they are relatively unelaborated but possess unique, plush, rounded fruit flavours which were almost entirely located in the mid-palate. Very roughly put, most amphora wines I have had tasted thus far have been similar to simpler grand cru Beaujolais (though none were made from gamay). Yes, I certainly need to taste more amphora wines but I’m doing my best.
Wine being so complex, I hesitate to draw conclusions regarding the role of vintage, winemaker intention, clonal influence and the effects of various containers used for aging but here are a few observations that stood out for me in the tasting.
Judging by the relatively low alcohol levels, it is tricky to ripen pinot noir this far North yet the wines were extremely well balanced and seemed to have phenolic ripeness.
The wines were quite light in terms of fruit intensity and body but the flavours were focused, layered and though very savoury, were generally well elaborated.
The 2020 wine, which was the only one that was all amphora seemed to be the most developed and closer to the end of its drinking window.
The 2016 wine, which saw the most oak in combination with amphora had a very different set of fresher, juicier fruit flavours than any of the other wines, was more impressive overall and seemed generally to be more toward the middle of its drinking window.
Until next time.